Lexicon

Biennial

Refers to the life cycle of a plant. In the first year, the seedlings produces roots and leaves. In the second, flowers are produced, and new seed is set. These seeds may be harvested or allowed to self-sow. To establish a reliable "perennial" planting of biennials, it is necessary to install flowering plants two years in succession.

Compost

Refers to a byproduct of the decomposition of plant materials such as leaves, lawn clippings and vegetable matter. Over time, using heat and light, microbial action breaks down this material to form compost.

Deadhead

Refers to the removal of faded, spent flowers or fruit. Often used synonymously with cutting back. This is an important gardening technique, as it keeps the grden tidy, it keeps unwanted seedlings from appearing and, if you do it before they fade, the flowers often are great for cutting.

Dormant

Refers to seasonal inactivity of the plant, such as dicentra, papaver and many woodland plants. After flowering, the plant suspends activity until their biological clock awakens them next season.

Drainage

Refers to a critical factor for a plant's survival. The term "excellent drainage" means that no standing water is tolerated during winter. The addition of coarse sand will improve soil with average or poor drainage characteristics.

Fertilizer

The numbers on the fertilizer package relate to the amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium the fertilizer contains. A 10-10-10 would have equal amounts of all three nutrients. These nutrients have complex purposes in plants, but in general terms, nitrogen promotes lush foliage and vigorous growth, phosphorus helps with stem, flower, fruit and seed production, and potassium helps the roots and other growing tips develop. Always be sure to read the package carefully, as some may include trace minerals that plants also need. Follow the directions for quantities, too. It is not good to over fertilize, as plants tend to be weak and floppy of stem. To produce healthy plants, feed them regularly and well, but don’t overdo it.

Specialty fertilizers should be staples in your garden pantry, as they are especially formulated to meet the specific requirements of specific plants – roses, evergreens and vegetables, for examples. If kept covered, and in a dry place, fertilizers will last for a long time. (Hint: plastic measuring spoons and a gallon container kept handy and for that purpose only, make it much easier to feed your plants on a regular basis.) A calendar is also helpful, to keep track of the special diet requirements of your collection. Good growing includes good record-keeping.

Genus

Refers to a group of plants that share common characteristics. Plural: genera.

Hardiness Zone
We have a link to the national and Maine zone map that will help you determine growing conditions in your area.
Hardy
This word is used to describe plants that will survive weather coditions in your area. It is important to know your zone so you can select plants that will survive.

Hybrid

People can be puzzled and ultimately, frustrated by the lavish use of hort jargon found in the nursery and garden center industry. Easy for the pros but daunting to the unfortunate gardener who must wade through language (often literally) foreign to the eye and ear. And all this to buy petunias for the window boxes??? It may simply be too much trouble.

 

A hybrid is a new plant specimen created by "crossing" different species or varieties. {Insert example} Crossing consists of carrying the pollen from one flower to the pistil of another. This can be done by scientist or birds. When done by scientists, the results can include new vigor, improved health, new colors, heights – even fragrance. When done by birds, the results may be the same – but certainly not as predictable.

Invasive

Refers to aggressive spreading habits, via seed, roots or stems. This can be desirable in the appropriate location. Invasive plants include some achilleas, some herbs, viola, some anemones and the classic example, grass.

Microclimate

Refers to an area that exhibits climatic conditions different than the average for the location. A warm microclimate may be often found adjacent to a southern-facing foundation, near trees which serve as valuable windbreaks, or an area where exposure does not allow soil temperatures to fluctuate.

Mulch
Mulch is a valuable addition to the garden for many reasons.
Applied to the surface of the soil, it helps retain moisture,which is especially important now, as we experience drought.Eventually,they incorporate into the soil.
Mulch helps prevent weeds and will help prevent some fungal diseases from spreading.
Hay, straw, shredded leaves, pine needles, bark, or wood chips can be used. Some people like to use pea gravel or small stones. Whatever material you choose should be applied to a depth of 1-2”at any time of the season.

Pinching

By this we mean the cutting back of stems to manage growth. By pinching the emerging flower stems back by half during June, late blooming varieties, such as asters, phlox, chelone and monarda, can enjoy greatly improved performance - the number of flowers are usually doubled, the plants are shorter and do not require as much staking. Fungal problems will also be reduced, as well, because the density of foliage is reduced, allowing better air circulation. All pinching should be completed before the end of June.
The only tools you need are your fingers, although some stems will be so tough that shears are needed.
Pinching stems back is the gardeners secret to extending bloom times of plants.

 

Rhizomatous

Refers to a plant that spreads by underground roots which produce new plants. Examples
include galium, asarum and the classic example, lily of the valley.

Rockery aka Alpine

Refers to a planting site which is well-drained, sandy, usually located in full sun and most generally planted with typically small plants. Dianthus, arabis, aubrieta and moss phlox are examples of plants well-suited to this type of site. They usually prefer alkaline soil.

Self-seeding
Self-seeding occurs when a plant drops seed in the garden which then germinates and produces new plants. Some very aggressive plants can take over the garden, if allowed to do so. Deadheading will remove the seed pods and limit the unwanted spread. Not all plants will produce identica

Shearing

Refers to the removal of spent flowers from groundcovers such as moss phlox. Many gardeners use scissors to accomplish this easily.

Soil pH

Refers to the relative acidity/alkalinity of soil. In New England, soil is usually acid. To measure, use a test kit, or send a sample to the University of Maine Analytical Lab. To increase acidity, add acid fertilizer. To increase alkalinity, add lime.

Acid soil
Gardeners use this term to describe one aspect of soil chemistry . It affects the availability of certain necessary chemicals to growing plants. Soil is described as either acid or alkaline using the pH scale, running from 0 to 14. 0 is completely acidic and 14, completely alkaline. 7.0 is neutral. Most growing plants prefer a slightly acid soil with a pH of 6.0 to 6.8. This can be measured using a home soil test kit or using the testing services of UMO. To raise the Ph, lime or peat is added to the soil. If you needed to decrease the acid, ground sulfur is added. Azaleas, rhododendrons and hollies are acid-loving and will benefit from the addition of an acid fertilizer. Most perennials prefer a neutral soil. Fall is the best time to add these slow-release products, as they will have all winter to blend with the soil.
Soil Test

 

Soil testing is highly recommended for gardens and lawns. It eliminates guess work when applying fertilizer and incorporating amendments, such as compost. The rule: if you don’t need it, don’t use it. This is especially important with lawn fertilizers. A test tells you what soil needs to be healthy and productive.
The test kits available in your local garden center are very effective. If you want even more detail, call your local Cooperative Extension office (in Cumberland County, call 780-4205) to obtain the kit you will need to get a test from the University of Maine at Orono. The cost is $15.00.

Staking

Refers to any system designed to assist plants in maintaining an upright habit. Staking is usually required by delphinium, peonies and platycodon. Staking should be done at the beginning of the season and care must be taken when placing them so as not to damage the roots. If the plant looks like it needs staking, it's probably too late. Keep notes for next year.

Stoloniferous

Refers to any plant that spreads by stems growing above ground that root at the tips. Examples include ajuga, vinca and the classic example, the strawberry.

Taproot

Refers to the major root of a plant, extending at least 12 inches (but often much deeper) into the soil. Moving plants with a long taproot is difficult. Taproots are found in baptisia, thermopsis, dictamnus, gypsophila, and the classic example, the carrot.

Winter Kill

Refers to damage suffered by above ground plant tissue due to winter conditions. Protective measures, such as mulch and burlap wraps, should be provided for vulnerable varieties. There are certain plants which usually experience winter kill of top growth, such as buddleia and roses. Generally, this is a setback, not life-threatening.

 

Synonym: dieback