What do I need to know about peonies?
Peonies are long lived herbaceous perennials. Some peonies reach ages of 100 years and more! It is not uncommon for family members to share divisions of the same plant for each generation.
Although they are relatively easy to care for, they do require an annual application of compost, preferably in the spring. This should be scratched into the top 1-2 inches of soil. Every other year, the addition of lime will help with maintain a proper soil pH. A landscaprs trick: install peony cages before the peony starts its rapid growth and soon the foliage will cover the cage.
What preparation needs to be done when planting a peony?
Herbaceous peonies get their best start when planted in compost-enriched soil.For long-term benefits, we add superphosphate to the soil mix, as well.
Plant the peony so the eyes remain no more than 2 inches below the soil surface. If the eyes are hard to find, try to find the top of the woody portion of the root and use this as a measurement of the 2” mark. Remember, peonies are long lived plants so proper planting will provide many years of beautiful bloom.
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Other Questions...
How do I encourage my roses to rebloom, throughout the season?
Usually, removing the spent flowers from roses, as well as other ornamental shrubs, perennials and annuals will encourage the plant to conrtinue flowering.
Deadheading stops the seed producing process of the plantt> and since reproducing itself is a powerful force, the plant responds by producing more flowers and thus, seed. The life force is strong.
After the first flush of bloom, it is a good idea to fertilize the plant with rose food (follow package instructions). Some roses, alas, are genetically destined to bloom once only. These you cannot trick so easily.
This is one of the most common questions that we hear - and one that we always thought was one of the most complex to answer. We have learned that it is not so complex.
Generally, most clematis may be pruned in the spring. The species that bloom early in the season, such as montana and alpina, should not be pruned until after they bloom. So, for all the rest, cut to 15-18” off the ground in early April.
Add compost and mulch to keep the roots cool. They will do just fine!
P.S. Deer helped teach us how to get around all those rules about clematis pruning!.
How do you grow and maintain ornamental grasses?
Although the majority of ornamental grasses prefer well drained soil, in location that provides at least 6 hours of sun per day (full-part sun), there are some shade tolerant grasses and some that prefer frequent moisture to thrive. Deciduous types such as Miscanthus can be left standing over winter for a spectacular winter show. In very early spring , when the ground is still frozen, we like to cut them down to 6-8”.
Evergreen types need little more than a hand raking to remove old foliage.
Do not overfeed grasses or you may find weak, overgrown plants in your garden.
I am new to growing roses and a little nervous. How do I best take care of them??
Fall is the time to create your best rose garden ever! Now, in fall, you may ask? Yes, for now is the time when the preventions which will bring your beautiful roses through another one of our capricious and cantankerous winters must be accomplished.
1. Meticulous clean-up of the summer garden is the fist step. All sorts of diseases, insects and creatures love to winter over in garden trash. So, rake it up and compost for next season’s brown gold.
2. Planting or transplanting in fall is well-advised, as our long, gradual autumn encourages root growth and allow the plants to become well-established in their new home. We do not recommend pruning now. If winter die-back occurs (and it well may), let the old canes take the freeze. Spring pruning (back to 6”) is best.
3. After hard freeze has taken the rose to complete dormancy, it is time to mulch for winter. We like to put about a bushel of compost or well-aged bark mulch around each crown. Evergreen boughs (your used Christmas tree works very well) can also be placed on top.
4. In January, begin dreaming of your new roses for the next season. After all, you have been so successful with the ones you grew this year!
I have terrible luck with tulips. After the first year, they decline. Help!
It is a poorly kept secret that most tulips are not very “perennial”. Some varieties are better than others (ask at your garden center) .
Good drainage and soil preparation are the most important factors to success. Add compost to improve the soil for tulips and all other plants, too!.
Plant tulips deeply (8 inches). They like cool soil in summer, so planting perennials that will shade them helps, too. After the flowers fade, allow the foliage to ripen until it turns brown. Don’t remove it until you can gently pull it off. This gives the bulb energy for the next season. Use a slow-release fertilizer in fall and again in spring.
When should I cut back my daffodils?
After spring bulbs finish flowering, you may deadhead the faded flowers. Allow the foliage to continue growing until it yellows and shrivels away. At that time, you may cut it back entirely. This maturation process is the bulb’s way of rebuilding its strength so it can bloom again the following year. An exception, however, is the steadfast daffodil. In our gardens, we have found green daffodil foliage in August! So, now, we give it about six weeks to mature. Cutting back at that time has not harmed our bulbs. We do use a bulb fertilizer and follow the directions. And the daffodils increase yearly.